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Conventional vs. FHA Loan in Maryland: Which Is Right for You?

Choosing between a conventional and FHA loan in Maryland depends on your credit score, down payment, and long-term costs. Here's a plain-English breakdown to help you decide.

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Yu Sheon
Loan Officer · October 10, 2026

If you're buying a home in Maryland and you're trying to decide between a conventional loan and an FHA loan, you're facing the most common mortgage decision first-time buyers encounter. The short version: FHA is more forgiving on credit and down payment; conventional is cheaper over time if you qualify. But the real answer depends on your specific numbers — and the difference can mean thousands of dollars either way.

The Core Difference

FHA loans are insured by the federal government, which lets lenders approve borrowers that conventional underwriting wouldn't accept. Conventional loans are not government-backed — they follow guidelines set by Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac and rely on your credit score and down payment to determine eligibility and pricing.

Both are fixed-rate options available on 15- or 30-year terms. Both are widely available in Maryland. The differences come down to who qualifies, what it costs, and what the long-term math looks like.

Side-by-Side Comparison

FeatureFHA LoanConventional Loan
Minimum credit score580 (3.5% down) / 500 (10% down)620 standard; 680+ for best pricing
Minimum down payment3.5% (score 580+)3% (first-time buyer) or 5%
Mortgage insuranceRequired regardless of down paymentRequired only if down payment < 20%
Mortgage insurance removalAfter 11 years (10%+ down) or never (< 10% down)Automatically removed at 20% equity
Loan limits (Montgomery Co.)$1,149,825 (2026)$1,149,825 (2026, high-cost area)
Seller concessions allowedUp to 6% of purchase price3–9% depending on down payment
Property conditionFHA appraisal standards (stricter)Standard appraisal
Gift funds for down paymentFully allowedAllowed with restrictions

When FHA Makes More Sense

FHA is typically the better choice when one or more of these apply:

  • Your credit score is below 680. FHA pricing doesn't penalize lower scores as severely as conventional does through loan-level price adjustments (LLPAs). A borrower with a 620 score will usually get a lower rate on FHA than conventional.
  • You have less than 5% saved. FHA's 3.5% minimum is lower than most conventional programs, and it's easier to combine with down payment assistance.
  • You have a higher debt-to-income ratio. FHA allows back-end DTI up to 57% with compensating factors; conventional is typically capped at 45–50%.
  • You're receiving gift funds. FHA has no restrictions on down payment gifts from family — conventional programs sometimes require the borrower to contribute a minimum from their own funds.
  • You recently had a credit event. FHA is generally more accommodating of past bankruptcies, collections, or late payments that have been resolved.

When Conventional Makes More Sense

Conventional is typically the better choice when:

  • Your credit score is 680 or higher. Above that threshold, conventional pricing is competitive with FHA — and without the lifetime mortgage insurance that FHA carries at low down payments.
  • You can put 20% down. No mortgage insurance at all, ever. This is the cleanest loan structure.
  • You plan to stay in the home long-term. Because conventional PMI drops off at 20% equity and FHA MIP doesn't (at less than 10% down), conventional becomes significantly cheaper over a 7–10 year hold.
  • You're buying a condo or investment property. FHA has stricter approval requirements for condos (condo must be on the FHA-approved list); conventional is more flexible.
  • Your property has condition issues. Conventional appraisals are less strict than FHA appraisals, which require certain safety and habitability standards.

The Mortgage Insurance Problem With FHA

This is the single most important thing to understand about FHA loans: if you put less than 10% down, FHA mortgage insurance stays for the life of the loan. It doesn't fall off at 20% equity the way conventional PMI does. For a $400,000 loan, FHA mortgage insurance adds roughly $200–$250 per month to your payment — and it never goes away unless you refinance.

Conventional PMI, by contrast, is automatically removed when your balance drops to 80% of the original purchase price (usually around year 7–10 on a 30-year loan), or sooner if your home appreciates. The difference over a 10-year period can easily exceed $25,000.

Many buyers start with FHA to get into the home, then refinance into conventional once they've built equity and improved their credit. This is a perfectly valid strategy — don't think of FHA as permanent. Think of it as the most accessible entry point, with a plan to convert when the numbers make sense.

The Down Payment Assistance Variable

Down payment assistance programs add a layer to this decision. Most DPA programs in Maryland are built around FHA — including TRIO (min 620 score), Chenoa Fund (min 640), and the Maryland Mortgage Program. If you're using DPA, you're almost certainly using FHA. If you have enough saved to go conventional without DPA, that's worth analyzing separately.

Run the Numbers, Not the Assumption

The best way to compare FHA vs. conventional isn't to read a general guide — it's to run both scenarios against your actual credit score, down payment amount, and the specific property you're buying. A broker can pull quotes for both in a single session and show you the monthly payment, total insurance cost, and break-even timeline side by side. The right answer is the one that fits your numbers, not the one that's most popular.

Bottom Line

FHA loans open the door for buyers with lower credit scores or limited savings. Conventional loans are more cost-effective for buyers with strong credit and the ability to put more down. Most Maryland first-time buyers fall somewhere in between — and the decision usually comes down to whether the short-term accessibility of FHA outweighs the long-term cost of its mortgage insurance. We run both scenarios for every buyer we work with. If you want to see your specific numbers, get pre-approved and we'll map out both options for you.

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